Most people come to Sigri by car, taxi or bus. It's about
an hour and a half from the port of Mytilini, through
some of the most
interesting and varied landscapes on the island. The village is sometimes
connected to mainland Greece by ferry service. Last year it was discontinued and
who knows about this year. If you are going to Eressos or staying on the western
part of the island this is one way to do it though the late arrival time makes
it slightly inconvenient. But you save three hours on the ferry and an hour and
a half that it takes to drive from Mytilini to this end of the island.
The Turkish Castle is probably the towns most impressive
man-made feature. Built in 1746 by the Sultan Mehmet, this fortress protected
the harbor where the Turks kept their fleet. The stones come from quarries in
Sarmaisakh, Turkey, paid for by heavy taxes levied upon the Christian
inhabitants of this part of the island. You can walk through the iron door and
along the walls for an impressive view of the village and the surrounding sea.
The church of Agia Triada was originally built as a
mosque. But unlike other mosques which face Mecca, the men who constructed it
somehow were able to face it east. Perhaps in 1870 the Turks knew that the winds
of change were in the air, or maybe the builders just pulled a fast one. Inside
the church is a water cistern which supplied the ships of the Sultan or perhaps
the hammam next door.
The old hammam (Turkish bath) sits unused since the last
Turks left the island in 1923. There are plans to reopen it again, though there
seems to be some dispute with the current owner who for some reason is reluctant
to see this happen. If the parties concerned can come to terms, a Turkish bath
would be a wonderful addition to the village.
The island of Nissiopi which protects the harbor from the
open sea has a large amount of petrified trees. The suspicious looking line of
telephone poles and wires do not provide power to a secret submarine or missle
base, but to the lighthouse that keeps ships from running aground.
Above the village is the brand new Museum of Natural History which features many
examples of the different kinds of trees found in the nearby petrified forest .
Petrified wood is not limited to the forest, but can be found all over the
southwestern portion of the island. The museum is still in the process of
completion, but the exhibits are well worth the walk to the top of the village,
and by next year the cafe should be open too.
In Sigri you have a town that is everything a good tourist
town should be. Good food, clean beaches, nice hotels, great family run
restaurants with fresh fish, stuff to do and even a tourist shop or two, and yet
it is not over-run with tourists. Sigri is certainly at the very least worth a
visit for lunch and a swim. The taverna at the town dock called Cavo di Oro
(photo) is one of the best restaurants on the island and the lobster at Remezzo's Fish Taverna impressed me so much that I wrote an entire article about
it. See Remezzos . There is also an excellent Italian restaurant in the town.
The town beach is fine, especially for families with children, looking for other
families with children. (If you have a child you will know what I mean.)
The beaches to the north and south are simply breathtaking and depending on the
time of day, you can have one all to yourself, even in August. The snorkeling
south of town off the rocks is good with plenty of fish and even an octopus or
two. Just follow the dirt road to Eressos.
The beach at Tsichlioda is at the end of a long valley
that looks like the Alaskan Tundra. You can get close to the sea but it can be
rough on your car so take it slow. Though not an officially designated nude
beach, there is nobody there to stop you. The beach is about a half mile long
and on the southeastern end (on the left if you face the water) is where the Tsichlioda river meets the sea. There are bits and pieces of petrified wood you
can find among the sand and gravel on the river delta.
The river itself is facinating and who knows what kind of creatures live beneath
the surface. The area is a haven for migrating birds and is featured in Richard
Brook's excellent Birding in Lesvos . There are tall swamp grasses and the area
is very green even in the summer. The rivers edge is a great place for a picnic
and maybe some late afternoon fresh water fishing. You may even discover an
unknown spieces that you can photograph, name it after yourself and then throw
it back.
If you continue on the dirt road that winds through the
nearly treeless mountains and valleys you will eventually come out in the
village of Eressos.
The beaches to the north of Sigri are also beautiful and
uncrowded. The waves can be big here when the wind blows from the north.
Faneromeni beach is separated by a large rock that offers shade, and a place to
dive off if you are one of those people who don't like sand. The Tapsas river
does not quite make it to the sea, at least not in July, but if you bring bread
you can probably coax some kind of creature to the surface, most likely a water
turtle. At the end of the beach is the Zoedochos Church which is built into a
rock. The whole valley is great for walking when the weather is not too hot.
Bring water.
Sigri is destined for popularity. It's proximity to Rafina
and the Cyclades and to Rafina, combined with its natural beauty, great
restaurants, friendly people and ample accommodations make it a dream
destination for travelers who want to experience the Greek islands without all
the bells and whistles of mass tourism. Within 2 years there will in all
probability be a daily boat from Athens, perhaps even one of the new high-speed
ferries that will make the trip from Rafina in three hours.