Forty-two kilometers from Mytilini on the southern coast of Lesvos,
Plomari, the ouzo capital of Greece, is built ampithitheatrically near the sea
and is the second largest town on the island.This is where the famous
Barbayiannis Ouzo comes from as well as several other smaller labels like the
excellent Ouzo Giannatsi which is distilled in the traditional method. Whether
it's from drinking the extra strong ouzo that many of the inhabitants seem to
favor or for some other reason, Plomarian's have the reputation of being a
little bit crazy and enjoying life to it's fullest. The women of Plomari have
the reputation of being a bit stubborn or to put it in better terms
strong-willed, as this child's rhyme which was taught to me by my wife's cousin
implies:
Stin Agiassou y Plomari
Oute yeneka
Oute mulari
(Translation:From Agiassou or Plomari neither woman nor mule).
There are several ouzo factories and also the Barbayiannis
ouzo museum on the road leading into town and it is obvious that the people of
Plomari take great pride in their ouzo . None seem to take a greater pride then
George Kabarnos and his son who have taken over the traditional distillery of
the famous (in Plomari)
Ouzo Giannatsi. While many of the other ouzo companies
have sold out to the big companies and perhaps sacrificed some of their
traditional methods in order to keep up with demand, Mr. Kabarnos still uses the
old wood burning kasani (still) that he uses to distill the ouzo. His shop right
in the main market area of the town is the best place to buy his ouzo since not
many of the cafeneons outside of the village carry it. And where else can you
get a lesson (in English or Greek) on what makes one ouzo better than another
and why distilled ouzo is the healthiest.
For more on Ouzo Giannatsi and Ouzo in general click here
The architecture of the town is pretty amazing with giant old mansions and
decaying factories, olive presses and tanneries amongst the houses of all
different size shapes and colors. The town itself straddles each side of a
ravine which in the rainy season turns into the Sedountas river. Some of the
houses are built right on the river and their walls form the banks, keeping the
flow contained and moving down towards the sea. While Plomari is impressive in
the summer it must be a spectacular place when the river is rushing down the
mountain.
Plomari was originally up in the mountains where the
beautiful village of Megalohori now stands. Both the mountain village and the
port were destroyed by fires from 1841 to 1843, after which the city we now know
as Plomari was built and became an important center for industry and commerce.
There are a number of Turkish fountains in the
village as well as many houses
with the Turkish-style architecture and if you come here on a cool day you can
spend hours walking around looking at the different buildings in the various
neighborhoods. Sometimes Plomari reminds me of Venice without the water.
If it is a hot day there are nice beaches at Agios Isidoros which is one of the
best areas on the island for swimming with a mixture of sand and a stone shelf
and open sea. Agios Isidoros is actually the area where most of the hotels are
located, including the American owned Hotel Pebble Beach which is right on the
water and within walking distance of town. The snorkeling off the coast of Agios
Isidoros is very interesting because of the rock formations which are like
undersea platforms that are full of sea-life.
There are some great restaurants in town and of course many cafeneons which
serve ouzo and mezedes to the young and old men of the village as well as the
occasional tourist. The main area for eating is around the large Platanos across
the bridge over the river. There are several churches of interest in the area
including Agios Nikolaos, near the market, with it's interesting icons of Saint
Demetrios and the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The church of Agia Paraskevis
is also lovely with it's iconostasis of white marble.
The town has an active marketplace and it's inhabitants are known for their high
level of culture, distinguished as sailors and active nationally. There are
several cultural centers including the old soap factory which has been restored
and the building which houses the Benjamin of Lesvos cultural society. There is
a large number of Greeks who have returned from abroad and English is
widely
spoken with a variety of interesting accents. It is hard to imagine a town which
combines the traditional Greek culture with that of our contemporary society as
comfortably as Plomari does. Combine this with the architecture and Plomari is
as interesting a town as Corfu or Hermioupolis in Syros
Ten Kilometers north is the village of Megalochori formerly the site of Plomari
and now known as the Switzerland of Lesvos because of it's high altitude,
healthy climate, orchards and abundant water. There is a beautiful platia with
several restaurants and cafeneons. The town has a number of Greek-Americans,
Greek-Australians and Greek-Africans, some who have come for the summer and
others who have returned to their ancestral home to live for the rest of their
lives. The Platia has an old Platanos that died many years ago but has now been
turned into some kind of shrine.
second largest town on the island.
Ouzo Giannatsi. While many of the other ouzo companies
have sold out to the big companies and perhaps sacrificed some of their
traditional methods in order to keep up with demand, Mr. Kabarnos still uses the
old wood burning kasani (still) that he uses to distill the ouzo. His shop right
in the main market area of the town is the best place to buy his ouzo since not
many of the cafeneons outside of the village carry it. And where else can you
get a lesson (in English or Greek) on what makes one ouzo better than another
and why distilled ouzo is the healthiest.
village as well as many houses
with the Turkish-style architecture and if you come here on a cool day you can
spend hours walking around looking at the different buildings in the various
neighborhoods. Sometimes Plomari reminds me of Venice without the water. 
nal tourist. The main area for eating is around the large Platanos across
the bridge over the river. There are several churches of interest in the area
including Agios Nikolaos, near the market, with it's interesting icons of Saint
Demetrios and the Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The church of Agia Paraskevis
is also lovely with it's iconostasis of white marble. 
widely
spoken with a variety of interesting accents. It is hard to imagine a town which
combines the traditional Greek culture with that of our contemporary society as
comfortably as Plomari does. Combine this with the architecture and Plomari is
as interesting a town as Corfu or Hermioupolis in Syros 
