A few kilometers from Molyvos is the village of Petra and
something is going on here. While the local government in Molyvos has decided
that their village is fine and are content to sit back and count their money,
the government in Petra has taken steps to improve the quality of life in their
village and make the area even more attractive for tourism. Rather than let the
motorbikes disturb the peace of the town they have closed
off the center of the
village to traffic and diverted through-traffic to the outskirts of the village.
This and other steps appear to be paying off because Petra is attracting more
and more visitors every year. While the front of the village appears to be a
tourist town of the highest degree (or lowest depending upon how you look at
it), the backstreets of the village give the visitor the feeling of the more
remote traditional villages of the island and since most of the tourists tend to
cling to gether like sheep along the shore, those people who are courageous
enough to wander through the back streets can find themselves in a uniquely
Greek setting, maybe finding what they have come to Lesvos in search of.
Stretched along a long human-filled beach lined with
cafe's and restaurants, the interior of the town surrounds a rock mountain
topped with the church of the Glykfylousa Panagia (Our Lady of the Sweet Kiss).
You reach the top of the rock by climbing the 114 steps carved into the stone.
From the church the view of Petra and the surrounding sea and countryside is
spectacular extending all the way to the coast of Asia Minor. A beautiful legend
concerning the building of the church on this high rock has come down to us: In
days of old a storm bought a religious captain to the shores of the area. One
morning the captain noticed that the Icon of the Blessed Virgin, which he always
had with him, was missing. He looked for it everywhere but to no avail. That
evening he saw a strange light shining seemingly suspended between sky and
earth. He climbed up the rock and found his icon placed before a lighted lamp.
He took it back to his boat but again it disappeared and again he found it on
top of the rock. He decided to build a small church there since that was
obviously the wish of the Blessed Virgin. The first church was built in 1609 and
the present one in 1747. There is a great celebration there on August 15th.
Below the rock is the tiny Church of Agios Nikolaos. Inside, the small church is
decorated with 16th century wall paintings that are colorful and inspirational
and worth a trip to the village.
The village itself has hotels, shops, restaurants and bars
all very close to the beach and a small main street, too narrow for cars even if
they were allowed, that has a variety of traditional shops and tourist shops
mixed together. It is funny because it appears that the local old men of the cafeneons behave as if they are oblivious to the swarms of tourists around them
as they drink their ouzo and eat their mezedes. There are plenty of good places
to eat. Be sure to try the Restaurant run by the Women's Agricultural Co-op of
Petra for at least one meal. Their offices are upstairs in the large building on
the main square so drop in and find out exactly what it is they do. In between
Petra and Anaxos is the excellent Avlaki Taverna. For other restaurants nearby
see my restaurant page . There is also a center run by a very interesting woman
named Hanna where they offer classes in various spiritual and cultural topics.
Petra is also one of the hangouts of famed author Carol P. Christ who leads
seminars for women every summer.
Remember that August 15th is the festival of the Panagia
(Virgin mary) and a great holiday for the village of Petra. The cobbled streets
are lined with stalls, Greek flags and great atmosphere.
Five minutes from Petra is the small village of Anaxos,
with a nice stretch of beach with lots of tavernas and a view of Molyvos. Anaxos
is a resort town with several outdoor swimming pools for public use. Well, not
exactly public use but if you buy a drink you and your kids can hang out there
all day. The pools are salt water however, as are many of the pools on the
island so if you are looking for the wonderful clorinated water you are familiar
with then you should probably ask before you dive in. At one time Anaxos was a
popular destination for package tourists and it still pretty much has that feel,
but there are lots of individuals and even some people who like it so much that
they come back every year though I generally skip a year or so between visits.
The beach can be crowded, like the beach at Petra, but if you like people that
should not be a problem. If you don't like people and want to go to somewhere a
little more remote you can rent cars, bikes and motorbikes in either town and
there are lots of coves and beaches along the coast.
off the center of the
village to traffic and diverted through-traffic to the outskirts of the village.
This and other steps appear to be paying off because Petra is attracting more
and more visitors every year. While the front of the village appears to be a
tourist town of the highest degree (or lowest depending upon how you look at
it), the backstreets of the village give the visitor the feeling of the more
remote traditional villages of the island and since most of the tourists tend to
cling to gether like sheep along the shore, those people who are courageous
enough to wander through the back streets can find themselves in a uniquely
Greek setting, maybe finding what they have come to Lesvos in search of. 
because it appears that the local old men of the cafeneons behave as if they are oblivious to the swarms of tourists around them
as they drink their ouzo and eat their mezedes. There are plenty of good places
to eat. Be sure to try the Restaurant run by the Women's Agricultural Co-op of
Petra for at least one meal. Their offices are upstairs in the large building on
the main square so drop in and find out exactly what it is they do. In between
Petra and Anaxos is the excellent Avlaki Taverna. For other restaurants nearby
see my restaurant page . There is also a center run by a very interesting woman
named Hanna where they offer classes in various spiritual and cultural topics.
Petra is also one of the hangouts of famed author Carol P. Christ who leads
seminars for women every summer. 
uld probably ask before you dive in. At one time Anaxos was a
popular destination for package tourists and it still pretty much has that feel,
but there are lots of individuals and even some people who like it so much that
they come back every year though I generally skip a year or so between visits.
The beach can be crowded, like the beach at Petra, but if you like people that
should not be a problem. If you don't like people and want to go to somewhere a
little more remote you can rent cars, bikes and motorbikes in either town and
there are lots of coves and beaches along the coast. 
